A Guide To The North East Of Sardinia

If you’re visiting the northeast of Sardinia, chances are you’ll land in Olbia. While many travellers skip straight through in favour of nearby resorts, we’d recommend starting your trip with a night or two here. This unassuming port town has a relaxed charm and a burgeoning food scene, with elegant wine bars, modern Sardinian restaurants, and a scattering of independent boutiques. It’s also perfectly placed for exploring the beaches just beyond the city.

Where To Stay

Hotel Panorama is a simple but well-located base for exploring Olbia, offering old-world touches, friendly service, and a panoramic rooftop that looks out across the marina. It’s not flashy, as you’ll find with most accommodation in these parts, but it's perfect for a couple of nights before heading north.

Where To Eat & Drink

Anticas Licanzias Bistrot is your first stop for sampling Sardinian classics. By day, it operates as a charming deli serving local cheeses, cured meats, and pantry staples; by night, it transforms into an atmospheric street-side restaurant. The menu leans into regional favourites: culurgiones, fregola with clams, slow-cooked meats—all served beautifully with a glass of local Vermentino.

Ticcu Ticcu is a small, design-led bistro serving up natural wine and inventive small plates. The daily menu changes depending on what’s fresh from the market but leans into local staples like marinated anchovies, zesty citrus-dressed vegetables, and charred polpo.

On Olbia’s main square, Piazza Matteotti, you’ll find The Wine Club—a prime spot for people-watching with a glass of crisp wine in hand. Their list leans heavily into Sardinian producers, with a few well-chosen bottles from the mainland and beyond. Their charcuterie is also delicious.

Gelateria la Brivido is a local institution, known for its creamy 100% natural gelato. The pumpkin and ameretti and ricotta honey and walnut are standouts, as well as their brioche con gelato (gelato sandwiched between a sweet brioche bun). There’s usually a line, especially in the post-dinner hours.

What To Do

Sardinia’s beaches are some of the most beautiful in Europe, with Caribbean-blue waters and powdery white sand, so you’ll want to tick off as many as you can during your stay. Just a 15-minute drive from the centre, Porto Istana is one of the region’s most beautiful beaches. Shallow, turquoise waters make it perfect for swimming, and the powdery sand rarely feels crowded—especially if you go early.

Pittulongu offers a more lively beach day, with laid-back beach bars and restaurants dotted along the shoreline. It’s a favourite among locals for sunset drinks with a sea view and is easy to access by car or bus.

If you’re looking for a unique souvenir, Sandali Amalia is a must-visit in Olbia for handmade leather sandals, custom-crafted to fit your feet. Each pair is made to order in their tiny studio, where you can choose the leather colour, sole, and strap style.

Tucked between the granite hills of Gallura, San Pantaleo is a bohemian village that feels worlds away from the flash of the nearby Costa Smeralda resorts. In the 1960s, artists and artisans began settling here, drawn by the wild landscapes and raw beauty of the surrounding countryside. That creative spirit remains today. Visit sculptors’ studios, jewellery workshops, and one-of-a-kind boutiques brimming with linens and silks.

Where To Stay

Perched in the hills just above San Pantaleo, Petra Segreta Resort & Spa is a luxurious escape. Rooms are scattered across restored stone cottages with sweeping views, while the on-site spa and Michelin-starred restaurant make it easy to do very little.
For something more low-key, Arathena Hotel offers a peaceful, traditional stay just a short stroll from the centre of the village. Built into the hillside, the property feels like a cluster of village houses, with terracotta roofs, tiled floors, and balconies overlooking the valley. Interiors are simple but warm, and the pool area—framed by olive trees and granite boulders—is a calm, sun-drenched spot to spend an afternoon.

Where To Eat & Drink

Caffe Nina is the social heart of the village, and you’ll find locals and travellers filling its terrace at all hours of the day. It’s ideal for a late breakfast, a pre-market espresso, or a sunset spritz as the sun goes down. Order their snack plate once, and you’ll be coming back daily. Think a super-sized crisp pane carasau, loaded with whipped ricotta, drizzled with local honey, olives, cured meats and slices of salty pecorino.

Casa Boheme is one of the most exciting new openings in San Pantaleo—a wine cellar, rooftop bar, oyster counter, and concept store all rolled into one. Set across multiple levels just off the main square, it’s a place to linger. Start with oysters and a glass of Franciacorta on the rooftop terrace, which has some of the best views of the village and surrounding hills. At sunset, make your way inside for the main event—we loved the cacio e pepe, lime and bottarga.

There’s nothing fancy about Pizzeria Ichnos, the village’s go-to pizzeria, but it hits the spot every time. Expect crisp, wood-fired pizza, local beer, and laid-back charm. You’ll find yourself returning multiple times.

For your seafood fix, head to L’Assaggio, a hidden spot that offers elevated Sardinian cooking in a relaxed, candlelit setting. The menu changes with the seasons, and the wine list leans local. Their speciality is mussels in all their forms. With over 20 combos to choose from, you’ll be spoilt for choice.

What To Do

Begin your morning weaving through San Pantaleo’s independent boutiques, where you’ll find local crafts, wafty kaftans and local produce. Slip into Art Pala for bohemian dresses, handmade sandals and locally-sourced homewares, before visiting Tipico, an emporium of local produce, and pick up some honey, wine or olive oil from the surrounding countryside. Ismerelda is a staple on this coast and has a handful of outposts in key villages. Run by a local family, the store specialises in natural linen. Think floaty dresses, oversized shirts, and hand-dyed linen sets in soft, sun-faded tones—your Sardinian uniform.

On Thursdays, the village piazza blossoms into one of Sardinia’s most enchanting markets. Stalls overflow with wheels of pecorino, jars of wild honey and woven baskets.

If you’re in the mood for more wine, a short drive from the village brings you to Surrau Winery. Settle into the rustic stone farmhouse for a tasting that introduces you to Gallura’s signature grapes—a crisp Vermentino and a bold Cannonau—paired with local pecorino, cured meats and a stunning view of the surrounding mountains. You might want to book a taxi back to your hotel.

Porto Rotondo is a sun-soaked time warp. Designed in the 1960s as an architectural passion project by two Venetian brothers, the village was imagined as a kind of open-air theatre, with winding lanes, elliptical piazzas and sculptural touches hidden in plain sight. It quickly became a retreat for Italy’s creative elite and international stars. Sophia Loren, Virna Lisi and the Aga Khan were all regulars here. Less flashy than nearby Porto Cervo, it offers a more relaxed base to enjoy the beach and watch the yachts come in. Yes, it’s got an air of faded glamour about it, but that’s all part of the charm.

Where To Stay

Hotel Colonna San Marco is one of Porto Rotondo’s original hotels, occupying a prime spot near the marina and the central piazza. It’s simple, elegant and slightly old-school. Rooms are bright and breezy, with tiled floors, shuttered windows and balconies overlooking the village or the sea. The hotel’s greatest luxury is its location: just steps from the harbour, boutiques and beach paths, making it ideal for exploring this sprawling village on foot.

Where To Eat & Drink

TikTok tips should be taken with a pinch of salt, but Lu Stazzu has been doing the rounds for good reason. This beautiful little restaurant has a set-menu concept and allows visitors to sample all the best bits of Sardinian cuisine without it feeling touristy. Start dinner at the pecorino buffet, before sitting down to handmade pasta and melt-in-the-mouth spit-roast pork or lamb, all served family-style.

Bar Gelateria del Molo has been a staple of Porto Rotondo since the 1950s, making it one of the oldest and most beloved ice cream shops on the island. Its interiors are as they were when it opene, and gelato is served in old-school silver bowls. It’s infinitely charming—and the gelato is as good as the atmosphere.

Da Giovannino sits in a shaded courtyard just off Porto Rotondo’s main piazza, and it's been a touchstone of Sardinian fine dining for decades. Thoughtful yet unshowy, the restaurant is celebrated for its elegant takes on seafood. They serve up perfectly grilled langoustines or spaghetti al bottarga to the summer yacht crowd, who return year after year to this classic spot.

What To Do

Jump on the free beach shuttle—the Mara Mare—and spend your days at Spiaggia Ira. Loungers are available and there are a couple of small beach bars, so you can bed in all day and have your aperitivo before you head back into town. This charming little bus also stops at the quiet cove of Punta Nuraghe and Spiaggia Shirley Bassey, a sleepy, more secluded cove named after the iconic singer who holidayed here in the 1960s.

In summer, the village hosts open-air concerts, exhibitions and pop-up events, many of them free and held in the small piazzas and courtyards around the marina. Ask your hotel what’s on or follow the sound of music at sunset.

Just across the water from the Maddalena archipelago, Palau is a small harbour town and the gateway to the picture-perfect Maddalena islands. It feels less polished than the Costa Smeralda resorts to the south, but that’s part of the appeal. With its pastel facades, sailing boats and views that stretch across to Corsica on a clear day, Palau is the ideal base for exploring northern Sardinia’s waters.

Where To Stay

Hotel Capo d’Orso is tucked into a private bay just outside town, hidden among olive trees and juniper shrubs. It’s a quiet retreat with terraced rooms facing the sea, a small spa, and a wooden jetty that leads straight into the clearest turquoise water. Early morning swim, anyone? Breakfast is served under white linen canopies with views of the islands, and there’s a romantic restaurant set right on the rocks for dinner by candlelight.

Where To Eat & Drink

Ristorante Il Ghiottone is a cosy neighbourhood spot that’s become a favourite with locals for good reason. Expect hearty, generous Sardinian dishes—grilled swordfish, fregola with clams, handmade ravioli—served with little fanfare but a whole lot of flavour.

La Gritta sits just across the water from La Maddalena, with wraparound views and a refined, seafood-forward menu. It’s a more elegant affair than most of the spots in town, but is perfect for a special meal. Go at sunset, when the terrace glows and you can watch the boats docking.

What To Do

One of the best ways to experience Palau is from the water, and Natour Sardinia offers small-group boat trips to the Maddalena archipelago. Hop aboard a 12-seat RIB and spend the day exploring island beaches, swimming in hidden coves, and snorkelling through crystal-clear water, which rivals any Caribbean island you might have visited. Your captain will even stop for aperitivo hour on the water so you can enjoy a spread of cheese and olives and local wine with your boat-mates.

Nestled at the heart of the Costa Smeralda, Porto Cervo was born in the early 1960s when Prince Karim Aga Khan commissioned architects like Michele Busiri Vici, Jacques Couëlle and Luigi Vietti to create a luxury retreat in harmony with the landscape. With its pastel-hued, pseudo-Moorish architecture, marble fountains, boutiques and yachts, the town exudes an effortless glamour that still draws a jet-set crowd today. The piazzetta remains an exclusive destination lined with Gucci, Prada and Loro Piana stores and is a great place to settle in for some world-class people-watching. You might even spot a celeb or two.

Where To Stay

Hotel Cala di Volpe built in the late 1960s by Jacques Couëlle and once featured in The Spy Who Loved Me, remains an icon. It was once the playground of the international jet set and hosted everyone from Princess Diana to Grace Kelly and is well worth a visit.

Alternatively, Hotel Pitrizza offers secluded luxury among juniper-dotted gardens overlooking Liscia di Vacca, with suites and villas that offer a more pared-back experience.

Where To Eat & Drink

Le Terrazze Ritual is that rare thing on the Costa Smeralda: a spot that’s as photogenic as it is genuinely atmospheric. Set high above Baia Sardinia and carved into the rock, it feels more like a surreal dreamscape than a restaurant. The crowd is stylish, the cocktails theatrical, and the golden-hour light demands to be snapped for Instagram. Book in advance, it’s name proceeds it.

Back in the piazzetta, Zuma Porto Cervo adds a stylish, international edge with sushi and sunset cocktails. And for laid-back luxury, Phi Beach transitions seamlessly from daybeds to DJs. You’ll need to make a reservation in advance. When the yachts come in, it gets busy.

What To Do

If all that pasta is taking a toll and you’re ready for a hike, climb to the hilltop Stella Maris Church designed by Busiri Vici, with its stained-glass Mater Dolorosa and commanding views over the bay.

If you still haven’t had your beach fix, or want one more day to enjoy doing very little, nearby beaches like Spiaggia del Principe, Liscia Ruja, Romazzino and Capriccioli are all worth spending the day at. Pack a book and your towel, and settle in.

The Promenade du Port—the new marina side—has quietly become the place to see and be seen. Among the sleek boutiques are Loro Piana’s Sease sailing collection and flagship stores from Gucci, Prada and Valentino. Get ready to spend—there’s nothing quiet about the luxury on offer here.

84 Rooms recommends: An Insider’s Guide To The Italian Riviera, and The Italian Summer Cocktails Of The Season.