UNESCO-protected, with rolling countryside and snow-capped mountains on the horizon, Piedmont is Italy’s unsung hero. The region is peppered with fantastic wineries and Michelin-starred restaurants and is rich in truffles. Plus, a new clutch of stylish hotels is making a visit even more compelling — especially in the Fall, when its landscape transforms into a riot of ambers and reds. Here’s where to stay, eat and play.
Where to Stay
One of the chicest new addresses in Piedmont is Nordelaia, which opened in 2022. Set in an 800-year-old pink farmhouse on an expansive estate outside the hilltop town of Cremolino, it’s surrounded by the undulating hills of Monferrato. Its 12 bedrooms are all stylish with a unique palette, but we love the Primavera Suite with its elegant four-poster bed, delicate ceiling frescoes, and roll-top bath in the bedroom. The heated outdoor pool is also mesmerizing for morning swims, accompanied by atmospheric fall mist. For the ultimate relaxation, there’s a full-on spa with Kneipp therapy pools, a hammam, and Ayurvedic treatments.
Set in the heart of Barolo wine country in Monforte d’Alba, Casa Mon is a love letter to Langhe in every detail, sip, and bite. A former rectory, its humble spaces have been converted into a six-bedroom home. A private chef can be sorted to whip up local specialties in the gourmet kitchen, paired alongside rare bottles from the wine cellar; while there is a saltwater swimming pool and a wellness area with sauna and steam room. While you’re in the area known as ‘the hills of tastes’ — make sure to road test its Barolos and Barbarescos, white truffles, and hazelnuts. Cooking classes, wine tastings, vineyard picnics, and truffle hunting can also be organized.
Family-run, Dai Gresy is an agriturismo set among Langhe’s vineyards on the ridge of Monte Aribaldo, connecting Barbaresco with Treiso. It combines spectacular views, tranquility and an intimate feel with an ancient Langa farmhouse at its heart, which has been in the owners’ family since the 17th century. Its 11 bedrooms are pared back to let the picture-perfect views do the talking — we love Room 9 with its open-plan design, exposed views and balcony overlooking the Neive vineyards and Barbaresco tower. Take a swim in the infinity pool at sunset, before settling into the bar and sampling the local wines around the fire.
Where to Eat
Nordelaia’s own fine dining restaurant L’Orto is fabulous. Set in a beautiful glass and brick outbuilding, it makes the most of Piedmontese produce as well as that of neighboring Liguria while, unusually, focusing on vegetables and seafood.
In the nearby town of Alba, the triple Michelin-starred Piazza Duomo, is a food-lover’s dream. Impeccable produce arrives twice a day from the restaurant’s own farm and is eaten beside its delightful pink frescoed walls. There’s no a la carte menu, so just let yourself be led by chef Enrico Crippa.
In Bra, where the Slow Food movement originated in the 1980s, book into the charming, family-run Battaglino, where traditional Piedmontese dishes have been served for more than a century alongside wines from the Coppa vineyard.
Further away in Turin, Piedmont’s elegant capital, try to bag a table at Al Gatto Nero, a favorite of local gourmands, Odd and Mimi Thorisson. With its original Sixties charm, it’s run by the Vanelli
What to Do & See
Piedmont has a number of contemporary art installations to have on your radar. Start with the technicolor Cappella del Barolo, also known as the Chapel of the Madonna Delle Grazie, in La Morra, which sits alongside the Ceretto family’s vineyard.
There are a multitude of castles and cathedrals to visit, as well as hiking and biking trails in the Capanne di Marcarolo Natural Regional Park, but wine and truffles provide the main distractions in Piedmont. Its magnificent landscape is home to some of Italy’s finest reds, and many of its wineries are worth a visit. Try sparkling wines at the family-run Coppo in Cennelli, a temple of wine whose hallowed underground halls are UNESCO-protected. Next, drop into the Ceretto Winery, run by the Ceretto family since 1930. Truffle enthusiasts should try to time their visit with the Alba Truffle Fair in November or join a truffle hunt through the Langhe hills.
How to Get There
Fly into Turin or the Milan airports.
