The Best Neo-Bistros In Paris

19 Saint Roch: Just recently opened in the 1st arrondissement, it's the newest restaurant from the infamous chef Pierre Touitou, known for his vibrant bistro Vivant and charming establishment, the Deviant. While prices lean slightly to the more expensive side, every dish is well thought through and could be featured on the menu of a Michelin-starred restaurant. The wine list caters to all budgets, predominantly featuring biodynamic and natural wines. ©Timothée Chambovet

19 Rue Saint-Roch, 1 arr.

Bistrot Des Tournelles: Every meal at Bistrot des Tournelles feels like the best meal ever. Classic French dishes are executed to perfection. Every meat dish is followed by Michelin-grade “au jus”, and you get as much jus as you want. There are two side dish choices of frites or puréed potatoes - choose BOTH. A selection of beautiful natural wines with a focus on the Beaujolais region. The Bistrot des Tournelles opened in 2022 and was named “Best Bistro of 2023” by Le Fooding.

6 Rue des Tournelles, 4 arr.

Restaurant AT: Incredibly creative fine dining restaurant in a beautiful minimalistic space. From the plates, and bowls to the cutlery, everything is hand-sourced throughout Europe and Japan. The chef Atsushi is undeniably one of the most inventive and progressive chefs in Paris. Atsushi draws inspiration from avant-garde fashion designers, as seen in creative cooking and plating. The dishes are not just picturesque but have a lot of depth and flavor.

4bis Rue du Cardinal Lemoine, 5 arr.

L’Avant Comptoir du Marché: In my opinion, one of the coolest spots in Paris, with the best butter. Here, pig is king; go for the small tapas-style meat dishes — the menu changes often, so ask for recommendations. The crowd is a beautiful mix of locals and tourists, old and young, drinkers and eaters. Mostly natural wines, most of which are also available by the glass.

14 Rue Lobineau, 6 arr.

Le Mermoz: If you're seeking an exceptional neo-bistro in the 8th arrondissement, your search ends here. With impeccable produce, bold and indulgent dishes, and distinctive flavors, it's a culinary delight. The reasonably priced wine list offers an interesting selection of organic, natural wines, and sakes.

16 Rue Jean Mermoz, 8 arr.

Early June: A one-of-a-kind bistro anywhere in the world. The owners, Camilla and Victor, are polished hospitality professionals, creating a youthful vibe during service. Each guest chef brings their style using seasonal French products in the tiny open kitchen. The focus is on small plates and funky natural wines. What to order? Ideally everything.

19 Rue Jean Poulmarch, 10 arr.

Le Servan: Truly a one-of-a-kind special restaurant and the epitome of a great Parisian dining experience. It was opened 10 years ago by two sisters, Katia (Sommelier) and Tatiana (Chef). Their combined international work experiences in Manila, Hong Kong, Thailand, and France allow them to create a unique friendly family atmosphere, along with an affordable à la carte menu featuring French dishes with Southeast Asian influences. Don't miss out on their snacks and starters – ideally, try them all. Their sister restaurant, Double Dragon, is also worth checking out.

32 Rue Saint-Maur, 11 arr.

Septime: Possibly the hardest table to book in Paris, but worth the effort. The restaurant sources over 90% of its ingredients from within France with a focus on vegetables, whole animals, and natural wine. Despite its decade-lasting success, both the cuisine and the wines are still reasonably priced. The decor, service, and overall mood of the restaurant are very chill and relaxed, rather than your typical fine-dining cuisine. Keep your expectations more reasonable than “better be worth it” so that you see their genuine pleasure in welcoming you.

80 Rue de Charonne, 11 arr.

Maison Sota: Chef Sota Atsumi, famous for being the head chef of Clown Bar, left to open his restaurant, Maison by Sota Atsumi. The loft-like open-kitchen restaurant is on two floors and includes a wood-burning oven and wood-fired grill. The walls and floors are decorated with classic French red tomette tiles, and diners have a choice of being seated at a long 8-meter table, more intimate separate tables, or a seat at the chef's table. The menu consists of delicious fare made with carefully chosen seasonal ingredients, prepared without ostentation, and with pure respect for each product. When you go, take advantage of the wine pairing menu, which will be a delight even for the most educated wine enthusiasts.

3 Rue Saint-Hubert, 11 arr.

Brutos: South American barbecue meets French bistro, with an incredible list of superb natural wine selections. On Sundays, they offer seasonal appetizers and their specialty: whole chicken grilled over an open fire. They finish their bread over the grill, imparting an incredible smoky flavor. If you're not worried about calories, Sundays feature a dish of mashed potatoes with bone marrow — I asked, and the key to the smashed potatoes is a 50/50 blend of butter and potatoes. Simply incredible.

5 Rue du Général Renault, 11 arr.

Le Rigmarole: The daily changing menu is a collection of dishes inspired by Chef Robert Compagnon's obsession with Japan and his skill with yakitori. Alongside grilled meats and seafood, you'll find handmade pasta, raw chicken, and stunning desserts by his partner Jessica Yang, a pastry chef with experience at Per Se (NYC) and Guy Savoy (Paris). On weekends, the restaurant transforms into Pizzamarole, where Daniel Pearson, clearly obsessed with sourdough pizza, crafts some of the most incredible pizzas you can find anywhere—even Italians agree. The wine list offers an incredible selection of natural wines, with an endless selection of reasonably priced choices by the glass.

10 Rue du Grand Prieuré, 11 arr.

Table Paris: Conceived and run by Bruno Verjus, a self-taught chef, food critic, and entrepreneur with immense charisma, Table Paris currently ranks as the 10th best restaurant in the world. Agnese Morandi was recently chosen as the best sommelier of the year by Identità Golose. There is a high focus on sustainability and clean seasonal cuisine. The restaurant sources from over 200 different suppliers, and the menu changes daily depending on the delivery from the suppliers. It serves not just one delicious dish after another but very much delivers the art of nourishment. The vibe is genuine, warm, personal interaction between chefs and guests, which is often lost in the constant strive for stars and lists.

3 R. de Prague, 12 arr.

Le Grand Bain: Offering a funky selection of natural wines and friendly service. The tapas-style extensive menu caters to pescatarians, vegetarians, and dedicated carnivores alike. From wines to food, everything is well-considered and reasonably priced. You go through the entire menu while enjoying a few bottles of personal wines without breaking the bank.

14 Rue Denoyez, 20 arr.

Lassi Martikainen is an 84 Rooms contributor, based between Paris and Helsinki. Follow him on Instagram @bylassi

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