Sveva Clavarino's Guide To Her Hometown Genova & Liguria

Tell us about your latest venture:

Sveva’s Home is my latest venture, produced in Recco, where the famous cheese focaccia comes from. The plates are all handcrafted and hand-painted by local artisans, inspired by Ligurian coastal life and my family’s table. Each piece is unique, designed to bring a touch of Italy’s warmth, tradition, and joy to everyday moments.

What does Genova mean to you?

I grew up in Milan but my family’s roots are in Genova. This is where we would return as a family every year for Christmas, and with each visit, I felt more rooted. There’s something deeply calming and grounding about Genova. Genova has a slower pace than Milan, yet it’s still brimming with beauty and culture, from ancient palazzos to museums to its people– their routines and rituals that anchor each day. Morning walks by the sea, focaccia and cappuccinos before heading off to work. Genova holds a special place in my heart—my grandparents lived their whole lives here, and the memories we created together will stay with me forever.

Where to Eat & Drink

Morning Ritual

  • Il Focaccino: They say the best focaccia is in Liguria. For me it’s at Il Focaccino… Come here in the morning for the most perfect, golden focaccia. Start your day like a local.

Lunch

  • Le Cicale, Albaro: A charming neighborhood bistrot—simple, local, and just right for a relaxed lunch.
  • Life Ristorante Sano: For healthy lunch or brunch in the heart of the city.

  • Medusa Bagni, Nervi: A 25-minute drive for a long seaside lunch—seasonal dishes, local wines, and tables just steps from the water. Book in advance!

Aperitivo & Dinner

  • Osvaldo in Piazzetta, Boccadasse: A neighborhood trattoria right by the sea—perfect for a slow Sunday lunch.

  • Ristorante San Giorgio: Ligurian cuisine with a modern twist. A go-to for fine dining in the city center.

  • La Piedigrotta da Carmine: My personal favorite—about 15 minutes from the center. Start with their raw tartars, then the salt-baked fish with roasted potatoes. Sit outside and watch the sea sparkle.

  • Trattoria Da Ugo: A charming, old-school trattoria known for its handmade pesto—don't leave without trying the linguine. Pop into their next-door deli to take some pesto and fresh pasta home.

  • Ippogriffo: The best seafood in town, especially if you're a Pasta alle Vongole devotee like me.

Where to Shop

  • Natura Sì & Cortilia: My go-tos for healthy groceries.

  • Mercato Orientale, Piazza Bianchi, Piazza Palermo & Piazza Parenzo: Bustling local markets filled with regional produce and a true sense of community.

  • Via Garibaldi 12: My favorite interior design store in Genova—elegant, curated, and full of character.

Where to Stay

At the central Melia Genova, or Palazzo Grillo, a beautiful design hotel housed in a 16th-century palace. Right by the harbor, NH Collection Marina is perfect if you want to be close to Porto Antico and Old Town.

Things To Do

  • Museums & Architecture: Acquario di Genova (by Renzo Piano), Museo del Mare, Palazzo Ducale and Museo di Palazzo Reale.

  • Move: Try a class at Red Yoga, or head for a morning run through Parco della Mura—with panoramic city and sea views.

  • Wander: Boccadasse: Once a fishermen’s village, now a postcard-perfect neighborhood of pastel houses, ice cream stands, and tiny trattorias. Via Giuseppe Garibaldi is lined with ancient palazzi. Walk around Porto Antico & Cattedrale di San Lorenzo and go to Spianata Castelletto, the city’s most magical viewpoint. The Parks of Nervi are great for runs.

A Day Trip Out of Town

Spend a day in Portofino or Santa Margherita, or venture further to Camogli and Recco—small towns that capture the Ligurian soul. If you have more time, don’t miss Cinque Terre.

Read our Guide to the Italian Riviera here.

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