An Insider's Guide To St Moritz

An Insider's Guide To St Moritz

Where to ski, eat, and what to see in the Engadin this winter.

/ Sebastian

The sun-blessed Engadin Valley in Switzerland is a delight to discover in all seasons. It’s home to St Moritz, the oldest winter sports destination in the world and still the ritziest resort in the Alps. It has hosted two Winter Olympics and offers exclusive chalets, a fine dining scene, buzzing nightlife, and some of the best hotels in Switzerland.

The Facts

  • Languages: Swiss German and Romansch, Romansch is still the most widely spoken language in parts of the Engadin

  • Heritage: 100% Swiss

  • Site: 1856 meters above sea level

  • Climate: High altitude keeps the town snowy and a prime winter spot

  • Wine: The Graubünden region… ‘Switzerland’s Burgundy’ produces beautiful Pinot Noirs

  • Sports: Walk out the front door and onto the chair lift to Corviglia - one of the best downhills in St. Moritz. With six slopes to choose from, you’ll never be bored.

Where to Dine

  • Chesa Veglia is set in a rustic farmhouse a few minutes walking from Badrutt’s Palace. Chesa Veglia serves Swiss classics such as schnitzel, veal, and homemade pasta, the roast chicken is one of their signature dishes. The Pizzeria on the second floor offers a more casual vibe. Order the Pizza Dama Bianca, it comes with truffle and Buffalo Mozzarella.”

Lunch on the Mountain

  • Opened last year: The Langosteria outpost from Milan took over the CheCha mountain hut on Salastrains.

  • Berghaus Trutz is owned by Suvretta House. Order the Swiss Farmer Kalbsbratwurst.

Cafés, Bakeries and Bars

  • Hanselmann is located in the pedestrian, get the Panettone.

  • Café Belmont is a nice combination of a wine bar, cocktail bar, and cafe. Go there before or after dinner.

Where to Shop

  • Super Mountain St. Moritz at Via Somplaz. You will find the space on the road towards Suvretta, opposite of the best fish delicatessen shop “Geronimi”. Stop by for a Negroni or Iva Spritz at Roth Bar, their new project collaboration with Hauser & Wirth. You’ll find them opposite of the Palace Hotel on Hauser & Wirth’s ground floor.


  • Hauser & Wirth St. Moritz presents a dynamic program of art exhibitions and events which connect with the local community and landscape of the Engadin valley.

  • Don’t Miss the Nomad art fair in February.


  • St. Moritz is the birthplace of winter tourism and Alpine sport, which came about over 150 years ago as the result of a bet. With a total of 87 World Cup standard slopes and pistes, St. Moritz is amongst the largest and most varied winter sports regions in the Alps. Beginners, families with children, seasoned skiers, and snowboarders are all at home here. With the four large ski areas of Corviglia/Piz Nair, Corvatsch/Furtschellas, Diavolezza, and Lagalb, and the five smaller ski areas, the Upper Engadine offers unlimited skiing pleasure.

Other Winter Activities

  • Hiking into the Val Fex. Hike towards the end of the valley, and have lunch at Hotel Fex. The Fex Valley is a tributary valley of the Upper Engadine and stretches for a total length of 10 kilometers off the small town of Sils. Hotel Fex is situated six kilometers up the valley. It is the last house, except for a neighboring farm. Since 1954 there is a nature and landscape protection. The government plans the development of the entire valley. Therefore you cannot find any constructions that destroy the original charm. Only the residents drive by car. There is a great bakery in the valley as well, called Crasta.

  • Winter curling at Suvretta House is a magical activity during the colder months.

Don’t Miss

  • The iconic Cresta Run is the oldest bob run (and the only one made of natural ice) in the world.

  • White Turf: The annual horse race takes place every February.

Where to Stay

  • Suvretta House is surrounded by soaring mountain peaks and glittering lakes that freeze over in winter, it is one of Europe’s grande dame mountain hotels and the only hotel in St. Moritz with ski-in, ski-out perks. Suvretta’s guests can ski at Corviglia and Piz Nair, among other areas, as well as go sledding, snowshoeing, curling, and tobogganing—St. Moritz is home to the infamous Cresta Run. Well-being and fitness lovers will also be kept happy inside the hotel: The Sports & Pleasure Club features everything from a 25-meter swimming pool to thermal and cold baths, as well as extreme strength training facilities. Foodies are spoiled for choice too: The Grand Restaurant is an elaborate dining room where Chef Fabrizio Zanetti serves a four-course French dinner menu; the Suvretta Stube serves up traditional Swiss specialties, with a few homeland flourishes from Costa Rican chef Isaac Briceño Obando; and the Sun Terrace is open for breakfast in the summer, and the hearty House offers afternoon tea in winter.

How to Get There

  • By air: Zurich Airport is 4 hours by train and 2 1/2 hours by car. Alternatively, Milan Malpensa is only 180 km away and a 3 hours car ride; Engadin Airport Samedan is just around the corner, but only for private jets or chartered planes.
  • By train: St. Moritz has its railway station. For Panoramic views, take the Bernina or Albula Railway lines to see the Unesco Heritage site (Rhaetian Railway) in its full glory.