A Guide To Hydra

A bohemian hideout since the Sixties, the go-slow island of Hydra is one of 84 Rooms’ beloved Greek islands. Founder Sebastian Schoellgen shares his recent haunts from the island of the moment.

‘A quick ferry ride from Athens brings you to Hydra, one of the Saronic islands in the Aegean Sea, but it feels like landing in a different world, in a time gone by. From the moment we arrived, the vibe was incredible: low-key, stylish and with a perfect simplicity. Like with anywhere, the best way to discover a new destination is to get lost… here are my favourite discoveries from our trip last July.’

• ‘The Pirate in the port, owned by a Greek-English couple, is a must to start your day.
• For the best brunch on the island, head to ‘Mikra Agglia’.

• ‘Omilos has a beautiful setting right on the water, but that’s not the best part. The dishes mingle Greek with Mediterranean in an unexpected way and are excellently executed. A must-visit!

• Take the water taxi from the port to Four Seasons, not to be confused with the luxury hotel chain, for a idyllic lunch. Order the Four Seasons salad and marinated shrimps.

• Don’t miss Castello, a beach club and restaurant set in an 18th century fort on the Kamini beach.’

• ‘Sunset is a well-known landmark in Hydra and with good reason; the view and position are just incredible. A must-visit for dinner.
• Téchnē offers modern Greek food and magnificent views over the Aegean sea.
• We loved Il Casta, a super cute Italian where you should order whatever the pasta of the day is. Sublime.’

• For a family-run experience, try 'Xeri Ella Douskos', which sits on a lovely square. Leonard Cohen was also a fan!’
• ‘Kodylenia’s is a very laid-back and relaxed taverna, with superb Greek food and wonderful views. It’s great for either lunch or dinner — ask for the fish of the day.

• ‘In the port, try Papagalos for cocktails. Or if you want to combine an evening swim with sundowners, go to Spilia or Hydronetta — easily our favourite of the trip with its incredible waterfront location.’

Four Seasons, has sun loungers to rent for the day and crystal clear waters. Take the water taxi from the port to get there for 10 euros.’ ‘We loved Castello, which, as I mentioned above, is a great lunch and dinner spot.

‘The art world, including collectors, curators and gallerists, have flocked to this tiny island for decades; they come for the art, then stay to swim at its beaches. Check out the Deste Foundation slaughterhouse, which hosts a series of contemporary art exhibitions on the island. This summer, a solo presentation by the artist Andra Ursuţa, opens on June 24. The space is open between June and October.'

Hydra is car-free, so it’s either by foot, by donkey or by boat. It makes the whole island very relaxing to stroll around — and burn off those Spritzes.

We stayed at Onos Residence, which offers cool suites with very good sea views and it’s within walking distance to town. We also liked Leto and Miranda if you’d prefer to stay in a hotel.

We visited in early July, when there was a good international crowd and it never felt too busy. Locals say to avoid August, suggesting September is the perfect time to go.

Fly into Athens International Airport, then take a taxi to the port of Piraeus (approx. 40 minutes), before jumping on a high speed ferry to Hydra, which runs frequently and costs around 35 euros per person for one way (approx 1 hour 20 minutes).

84 Rooms recommends: The Greek Island You Have To Visit This Summer, and An Insider’s Guide To Athens And Lesser Known Greek Islands.