Patmos, Dodecanese Islands, Greece


Still relatively under the radar, Patmos has long been a low-key favourite with the art and fashion set. With a rich Byzantine heritage that has shaped its architectural vernacular, this Dodecanese Island is all about the scene in its whitewashed Chora. Perched on a hill with cobbled lanes and energetic squares for morning coffees and pre-dinner drinks, it is the place to see and be seen on Patmos. Stay at Pagostas, a diminutive guesthouse in the Chora’s citadel that dates back to the 16th century — we love its roof terrace overlooking the sea.

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hotel Guide


  • Three unique rooms, a secret garden, and a roof terrace with views of the sea. Going back to the Greek idea of philoxenia, welcoming guests into one’s home.

  • Guestrooms are equipped with espresso machines and fridges (look out for daily treats), but do not expect hotel-style fripperies or lavish bathrooms. All three rooms have handheld showers, but no bathtubs. Signature scents are by Lyn Harris and herbal bath products come from the Cycladic island of Naxos. Natural mattresses, pillows, and bed linens are Greek.

  • Built in 1597, the house has many of the typical features of traditional Patmian architecture: sturdy stone walls and vaulted archways, terracotta floor tiles, and steep stairs both inside and out. The interior courtyard and walled garden (designed by landscape gardener Helli Pangalou) are hidden from view, while the first-floor veranda and roof terrace offer different perspectives of Chora and the hills and horizon beyond.


  • Housekeeping takes place daily, thanks to the local housekeeper, Poppy, who runs the house with great care and discretion.
  • Dry cleaning, transfers, boat trips, and guided excursions can be arranged for an additional charge.

Communal Spaces

  • Guests are encouraged to use all the communal spaces and to make themselves at home. Make a salad in the kitchen, put on a record and explore the library in the dining room, take tea in the courtyard, read in the garden, and invite friends to watch the sunset from the roof terrace with a Pagostas cocktail.

Wine & Dine

  • Breakfast is served anytime and anywhere you like. They use local ingredients: eggs, yogurt, and cheese from local farmers, brown bread with schinos (a type of aromatic root), heather honey from Lipsi island, fruit from Patmos or the surrounding islands, and seasonal preserves.
  • Every evening at dusk, they serve an aperitif on the roof terrace (for an additional charge). This is an opportunity to mingle and marvel at the views over a glass of local biodynamic wine, paired with a delicious assortment of nibbles. Residents can invite up to two guests to join them for magic hour.

Good to Know

  • Open year-round, Pagostas is especially lovely during off-season when the island settles into its own natural rhythm.


  • Laid-back linen.


  • Rates start from EUR. 250 per night (B&B) for a double room in low season. It is also possible to book the house in its entirety.
Local Guide

Location & Setting

  • Pagostas is well-hidden in the hilltop citadel of Chora, a Byzantine settlement that has been inhabited for over 900 years. In the tangle of whitewashed lanes, you will find a smattering of restaurants, shops, galleries, and bars. Cars are not permitted inside Chora; the nearest place to park is a few minutes’ walk from Pagostas.

Where to Eat, Drink, and Play

What to Do

  • Make time to climb the steps of the 11th century Monastery of St John, as well as exploring the island’s bays by boat.

How to Get There

  • By air: There is no airport on the small island of Patmos. The closest ones are those in Leros and Kos. Leros Airport receives only domestic flights from Athens International Airport. The flight from Athens to Leros takes only 50 minutes. Upon your arrival in Leros, you should take a taxi from the airport to the port. Kos Airport receives domestic flights all year round from Athens. During summer, the airport is connected with some European airports as well. Upon your arrival at the airport, you should take a taxi to the port and take the ferry to Patmos.
  • By ferry: Ferries to Patmos depart from Piraeus to Athens about 3 times a week. The trip is quite long, it lasts almost 8 hours.
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March 2024

April 2024

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